Day 3: Versailles

There’s really not much to say about Versailles except that it is ridiculous. Ridiculous.  I mean really, Louis? Really? Sheer, over-the-top opulence. Fun for me, sucky for the common people of France who were forced into poverty to pay for this:

 

Once Heather and I cleared the main Chateau, we roamed the extensive grounds – including Louis’ personal canal. Yes, he couldn’t be bothered to travel to Venice, so he built his own canal and shipped gondolas and the requisite gondoliers. The grounds are so extensive that you have to take a train or rent a bike or golf cart to see everything.

When life at the Chateau became too much for poor Louis, he decided to build himself a series of ‘smaller’ palaces to escape the pressures of being king and an adulterer (Yup, Antoinette got her own mini-palace-retreat, too.)

Grand Trianon

Louis Takes Up Botany

I remarked to Heather, “It’s always better to be the mistress.”

Her classic response? “Yeah, but there’s no job security in that.”

Drenched in heat and done with all of Louis’ mini-palaces, we were ready to start the long walk back to the Chateau (20 minutes) and then the train station (15 minutes).  We needed to get out of the sun and Marie Antoinette’s hamlet seemed like too far of a walk. But we rallied nonetheless, and OMG, Best. Decision. Ever.

So Ms. Let-Them-Eat-Cake decided that she really wanted to live the peasant life (without all of the hard work). What’s a girl to do? Commission your own Normandic Village, of course.

 

SHP: “OMG, she created her own Thomas Kinkade village!”

HRK: “No wonder they took that b*tch's head off.”

Day 2: Musee D’Orsay, Latin Quarter, and the Jewish Quarter

Our second day in Paris started out as every morning in Paris should: with a trip to the patisserie/boulangerie. Today’s selection? Brioche. But it was unlike any brioche I’ve ever had because this one was perfect. Not too sweet, lightly glazed on the outside – it’s almost what the American doughnut has been striving to be. Brioche in hand, we headed to the Musee D’Orsay. What was once a train station on the verge of demolition, has now become one of the world’s most impressive collections of art. And the building itself? Stunning. After two hours, I was saturated and tired. Break time at the Café Soferino while we planned our next move. Since we both had an interest in seeing the Latin Quarter (the Sorbonne, particularly), we made our way to south of the Seine. 

The Sorbonne

And what an odd mix. Part university town, part tourist ghetto – it made my head spin. Starbucks, Mac, Clair's, and then the final nail in the coffin – the Gap. The wide road reminded me too much of Market Street in SF and since I am nowhere near homesick, it was the last place I wanted to be reminded of. We made our way through the throngs to see the Pantheon, but it was too hot and overrun with tourists. So we settled for the serene church next door. Wise choice. It was empty, cool, and I didn’t burst into flames. That’s a plus. 

Exhausted now, we had to abandon our plans of seeing the mosque and the Museum of Arab History.  It was time to head home. We decided to take the route through the Jewish Quarter to pick up some famed falafels for lunch. Falafels endorsed by Lenny Kravitz and Rick Steves. With a spectrum of supporters such as these, we had to partake. Heather had the falafel I had the lamb schawerma. I know. Lamb. And it was seriously one of the best shawerma’s I’ve ever had if not the best lamb I’ve ever had. And I don’t know where to begin with the falafel. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it…

After a little bit of rest, we ventured out for a late, but light dinner in Ile Saint Louis. Still a balmy 75 degrees out, it was a glorious walk across the Seine. 

Time to hit the hay for an early start to Versailles tomorrow!

Day One: Arrival in Paris

Despite a ridiculously early flight out of SFO on Sunday morning, both legs of our flight were on time, and surprisingly easy. I was doubly impressed with United as it is one of my least favorite carriers. On the flight from Dulles to Paris, we were upgraded to Economy Plus and were treated to a screening of “Midnight in Paris.” Almost too perfect of a start to what promises to be an equally perfect vacation.

We landed in Paris at 6:30am, Monday morning, bought our Navigo cards (similar to a Clipper Card, with the lovely exception that it requires a photo and will allow us to take any mode of transportation from Zones 1-5), and jumped on the train to central Paris. After a near fatal miss – Heather made it onto the M as the doors closed, leaving me behind. I jumped on the next train and met her at station Republique. As we rode the escalator to street level, we were greeted by a blue sky and a warm Paris morning. A few blocks later, we found our charming apartment in the middle of le Marais. *le sigh* Once all five flights of stairs were out of the way, our landlord greeted us with pan de chocolat – still warm from the oven.

View from our apartment

In an effort to ward of the jet lag that was setting in, we decided to take a walk through the neightborhood. We found ourselves at Bar du Soleil for a quick bite and glass of wine while we basked in the Parisian sun. 

Chevre Salad

Sun and wine began to tire us, so we decided to keep moving. We wandered aimlessly, passing the Pompidou, Hotel de Ville, Notre Dame, and Ile Saint Louis. 

Pompidou

Hotel de Ville

As we headed back home, we stopped at the Supermarche, the French grocery chain. I’m always fascinated by grocery stores in other countries. We picked up a few staples and also walked away with roasted chicken and thyme potato chips (sounds weird, but oh-so-tasty), blood orange juice, and a 9e bottle of Sancerre. After giving in to the inevitable nap, we rallied for a night walk through le Marais. Bustling and lively, I’m not sure how I’m going to get around to all of the bistros and brasseries. Lord knows I’m going to try my best. It amazes me that these brasseries are packed all day, and well into the night. If crowd indicates quality, then I daresay, there are over 15 brasseries in a five block radius which will require my patronage. I knew I should’ve packed my pants with an elastic waistband. Tomorrow, the Orsay. Right now, I have a bottle of Sancerre with my name on it.